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December 24, 2009

Urban Outings: Deer Island, Novato

No deer, but plenty to see

It hasn't been an island for several centuries and you may not see any deer, but Deer Island in Novato is well worth a trip. Today a 135-acre open space preserve, Deer Island offers opportunities for hiking, dog walking (on leash only) and bird watching, and a chance to see a variety of native oaks. The fairly flat 1.8-mile Deer Island Loop trail circles the preserve, but if you want a more aerobic hike, you can take the shorter, but steeper, De Borba trail over the top.

This gentle hill on Novato's eastern edge was once part of the Petaluma River delta wetlands, surrounded by bay water. There is evidence that Coast Miwok tribes occupied the land.

What you'll find
This hike is a loop. When you pass the trailhead, turn left. This is the least attractive part of the hike, as it passes a salvage yard and storage facility across a fence. However, you will shortly come to a grove of fragrant bay trees and ferns, and then to more open grasslands with oaks and buckeye. As you walk along the loop, you will catch many glimpses of the recycled water ponds. Despite their humble origins as sewage, the pond waters are quite lovely and offer refuge to visiting egrets, herons, gulls and pelicans.

After about a half-mile, the De Borba trail cuts off to the right. This trail takes you over the top of the preserve and rejoins the Deer Island Loop shortly before the hike ends. Continuing on the Deer Island trail, look out over the marshes and grassland and catch glimpses of Novato Creek to the south. You will pass many huge coast live oak, but also deciduous blue and black oaks, their bare limbs in dramatic poses. Hawks and turkey vultures frequently fly overhead, and lower down, acorn woodpeckers collect the abundant acorns. Other wildlife include deer, squirrel (also storing acorns), skunk, rabbit, bobcat and fox.

Near the Russell Antonio Trail sign, look at the picturesque buckeye tree near the path, signaling that you have almost completed the loop. Right before the trail ends, you will also see a tumbled-down farmhouse, remains of a dairy operation that once flourished here.

After the walk
Get some lunch and stroll around on Grant Avenue in historic Old Town Novato. (To get to Old Town, turn left at Olive Avenue from Deer Island Lane, left at Railroad Avenue, and right onto Grant.) To experience the Old Town flavor, just meander down Grant Avenue for a couple of blocks. For coffee and pastries, stop in at Dr. Insomnia's (800 Grant Ave.). If you want a sandwich as well, try flourChylde Bakery (850 Grant Ave.), where you can get a panini or salad with your baked goods. For bar food or a complete meal -- as well as sports TV -- head to Finnegan's (877 Grant Ave.).

Getting there
By car from San Francisco, go over the Golden Gate Bridge and head north on Highway 101, taking the De Long Avenue exit. Turn left on De Long (over Highway 101) and then right on Reichert Avenue. Turn right on Grant Avenue past the boarded-up train depot and then quickly make a left onto Railroad Avenue. Turn right on Olive Avenue and after 1.4 miles, you will come to Deer Island Lane. Turn right and park in the small lot.

Urban Outings are presented by Greenbelt Alliance, the Bay Area's advocate for protecting open spaces and creating vibrant places. To suggest an Urban Outing, contact Gail Todd, tour leader for S.F. City Guides and author of "Lunchtime Walks in Downtown San Francisco." To find out more about Greenbelt Alliance's work, visit growsmartbay area.org.

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