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Greenbelt Alliance In the News

October 1, 2009

Urban Outings: Fillmore Street stroll to Alta Plaza Park

Subheading

Once a center of African American culture, Fillmore Street today is almost totally gentrified, with only traces remaining of the diverse ethnic groups that called it home. After the 1906 earthquake and fire, Jews settled in the Fillmore area, escaping the destruction of their south of Market Street homes. Soon the Fillmore sported synagogues, kosher delis and butcher shops. Japanese families also flooded into the area after the quake, remaining there until their internment during World War II.

During the war, African American munitions and shipyard workers moved into the Fillmore, creating the city's largest black neighborhood, filled with jazz clubs, restaurants and businesses.

Notables who once lived in the area include violinist Yehudi Menuhin, aviator Lincoln Beachey and poet Maya Angelou. Allen Ginsberg first read "Howl" here, and on a more somber note, Jim Jones' Peoples Temple was located at Geary and Fillmore.

Fillmore Street
Begin your walk at Geary and Fillmore, the location of the Fillmore Auditorium (1805 Geary Blvd.). During the '60s, dancers gyrated here under strobe lights to the music of the Grateful Dead, Jefferson Airplane and Led Zeppelin.

Walk along Fillmore south of Geary to see some of the area's remaining jazz cultural landmarks. Peek into Hats of the Fillmore (1539 Fillmore St.) and admire the fountain dedicated to the Fillmore Jazz District in the Fillmore Center Plaza, where every Saturday a farmers' market is held from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. Then continue past the Sheba Lounge (1419 Fillmore) to Yoshi's jazz club and the Fillmore Heritage Center (both at 1330 Fillmore St.). In the lobby, you can view exhibits about the Fillmore's past.

Head north of Geary on Fillmore to explore the more gentrified area. Past the Boom Boom Room (1601 Fillmore St.), you find coffee shops, clothing stores, pet boutiques, restaurants, shoe stores, flower shops, home decor emporiums, bookstores, beauty salons and jewelry stores. Stop into Mrs. Dewson's Hats (2050 Fillmore St.) to see more hats for the fashionably dressed gentleman or lady.

When you get to Clay Street, turn left and walk two blocks to Pierce and you will be facing the grand staircase leading up Alta Plaza Park.

Alta Plaza Park
If a wedding cake could be made of concrete, it would look like Alta Plaza Park. Bordered by Clay, Jackson, Steiner, and Scott streets, the park showcases a grand staircase that ascends from Clay at Pierce past tier after tier of magnificent views. When it was purchased by the city in 1877, the nearly 12-acre site was a neglected rock quarry. Brought to life 20 years later by Superintendent of Parks John McLaren, the park today is a series of terraces up to a sparkling children's playground that feels "on top of the world."

At each level, take time to walk along the terrace and look at the differing city views. Especially spectacular are vistas to the south of Sutro Tower, Buena Vista Park and Sutro Forest. A wheelchair-accessible path leads from Scott and Jackson streets up to the playground, where you can also find tennis and basketball courts and clean restrooms.

The grand staircase was a source of great excitement in 1971 during the filming of the raucous comedy "What's Up Doc?," when a number of automobiles were sent careening down the steps (without the city's permission), breaking off concrete chunks, which flew in all directions.

Above the playground is a little woods and a meadow frequented by (mostly) well-behaved dogs and their watchful owners. Here you can rest on a bench and gaze north at San Francisco Bay, Angel Island and some luxurious Pacific Heights homes.

Getting there
By public transportation take the Muni 38-Geary bus and get off at Fillmore Street. If you drive, park in the Japan Center garage (1610 Geary Blvd.). Garage entrances are on Geary between Webster and Laguna, Fillmore between Geary and Post, and Post between Webster and Laguna.

Urban Outings are presented by Greenbelt Alliance, the Bay Area's advocate for protecting open spaces and creating vibrant places. To suggest an Urban Outing, contact Gail Todd, tour leader for S.F. City Guides and author of "Lunchtime Walks in Downtown San Francisco." To find out more about Greenbelt Alliance's work, visit growsmartbayarea.org.

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